Flew into Khajuraho on a Thursday. The town exists mostly because of the temples.
The Chandela dynasty built around 85 temples here between the 10th and 12th centuries. About 20 survive. The western group is the main draw - Kandariya Mahadeva is the one in every photograph, spires stacked on spires, rising 30 metres. The erotic sculptures are maybe 10% of the total carvings, which is somehow both more and less than expected. The rest is just extraordinarily detailed depiction of life: music, hunting, elephants, armies.
The temples reward slow looking, especially early in the morning before the tour groups arrive.